Finding Hmong Food in the Twin Cities

Despite the nearly 60,000 Hmong in Minnesota, places to sample Hmong cooking are not easy to find. While many Hmong immigrated to the state following the Vietnam War and some became farmers, the few Hmong restaurants that were opened have not survived for long. One exception is Foodsmart at Kent and University Avenue in St. Paul that has been around for 10 years offering a wide variety of Asian food along with Hmong specialties, and its adjoining restaurant and deli.

The market is a full-service store offering fresh produce, fresh and frozen meat, handmade Hmong sausage, Hmong videos, cooking utensils, and a wide variety of Asian and Mexican ingredients. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner with a variety of Hmong and Thai dishes. Portions are large enough to share and the lunch special with two entrees and steamed rice is $7.95. Choices include roasted pork ribs, whole roasted chicken, deep-fried tilapia, Hmong fried rice with shrimp, salted and pepper shrimp, papaya salad, roasted pork, and roasted duck. Items also are available for takeout.

Hmong cooking has some Chinese influence, but it also draws on Vietnamese and Thai ingredients and techniques. Dating back before 5000 BC, the Hmong culture was a forerunner to Chinese, but became scattered throughout Asia in an attempt to escape enemies. Its history was verbal and its cooking handed down from generation to generation. Hmong cookbooks with written recipes are a recent development and difficult to find.

The Foodsmart restaurant’s chicken with peppers is a good example of this flavorful cooking. Red and green pepper chunks and small pieces of chicken with the bones in are simmered in a light sauce with a slightly peppery flavor. Milder than a Thai curry and lighter than Chinese red cooking, this dish has the look of home cooking and a sample of the Hmong approach. The Hmong pork sausage, made in the adjoining market, with its ginger and lemongrass flavors is also a standout.

Foodsmart is open daily 8 am to 8 pm. Call 651-665-0949 for more information.

Golden Harvest at 900 East Maryland Avenue in St. Paul, is another good source of Hmong foods. The market does not have a deli, but it has a wide variety of Asian ingredients and Hmong specialties. Open daily from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. For information call 651-772-3200.

Additional sources may be found in the Hmong resource guide published by the Hmong Times, 962 University Avenue W., St. Paul, MN 55104. For information on ordering call the paper at 651-224-9395.

Phyllis Louise Harris is a cookbook author, food writer and cooking teacher specializing in Asian foods. She is founder of the Asian Culinary Arts Institutes Ltd. dedicated to the preservation, understanding and enjoyment of the culinary arts of the Asia Pacific Rim. For information about ACAI’s programs call 612-813-1757 or visit the website at www.asianculinaryarts.com.