FREE SPEECH ZONE | Eight Best Eateries of 2012

It’s almost as if the food police had a quota to meet this year, ticketing anyplace foisting boring food onto the dining public and writing stern citations for overpricing. This patrol squad of the palate pretty much kept the city a no-chain zone, too. With one exception, my favorite newcomers arose from cozy digs with chef-driven, locally-sourced menus saluting squadrons of small plates.

Heading this year’s list is Mona (33 S. 7th St.), the sweet, little small-plates mecca launched by Chef Lisa Olson, whose list encourages patrons to create their own mix-and-match tasting menus from dishes that range from patrician (marrow bone—a local first?) to plebian (chicken and waffles, anyone?). Don’t miss the smoked oysters on their bed of spinach or the pork belly weighting a potato pancake, among the mini-masterpieces.

Next, in no particular order, the new Loring Park site of Café Maude (1610 Harmon Place) where, on Sundays, diners can dive into a three-course menu plus glass of vino for $30. Talk about dinner divine for a dime or two: cod terrine aside tendrils of spaghetti squash jiving with pumpkin curry, followed by lamb shank partnering risotto (or choose fish and chips), then a properly wicked devil’s food cake (or choose almond panna cotta).

Harriet Brasserie, current occupant of the former Linden Hills fire station (2724 W. 43rd St.), concentrates on creative small plates, too. Start with that ultra-rich and utterly luscious pork belly, this time atop a platform of corn grits and sided with husky braised greens. Then proceed to the divinely silky bison tartare, topped with a raw pheasant egg to stir in. If you meat-eaters prefer your carne cooked, head for the signature burger. Bypass the key lime pie at your own peril.

he Lynn (5003 Bryant S.) is another grass-roots success story, with casual, all-day dining in the front of the bakery-cum-café and more formal fare in the back room. Orchestrate a supper of small plates, beginning with the kitchen’s elegant mushroom tart or goat cheese soufflé, or opt for one of the five entrees that salute grandma’s cooking—pork, chicken, or by far the best choice, black cod, served with kale and parsnips, along with pickled pears. A side of creamed spinach could have doubled as dessert, and the addictive house-made bread is gratis.

At last, Kenwood has a club to call its own—the new Kenwood, in fact (2115 W. 21st St.), which backs onto the Kenwood School, whose alums were quick to claim its tables and indulge in small plates that vault from tame to avant, including the pastry “cigar” stuffed with duck offal (not as awful as it sounds—rather, shreds of trimmings mixed with organ meats), a creation you couldn’t have given away a few years back. More mainstream, and just as yummy: gnocchi with pesto and satiny chevre cheese; a sumptuous mushroom tart topped with—what’s this, again? Thank God!—pork belly, along with a gently-poached egg. Plenty of burgers on adjoining tables, too.

Nightingale (2551 Lyndale Ave. S.) is yet-another small-plates magnet, with choices in two columns: standard bar food (burgers, wing, fries) and foodie fare, such as the fabulous salt-and-pepper prawns with zingy slaw, or pulled pork atop baked grits. Even the veggies here sing: Brussels prouts with bacon; Swiss chard with raisins and pine nuts; and roasted cauliflower hopping with harissa.

From Nightingale to Birdhouse (2516 Hennepin Ave. S.), a former people’s house that salutes veggie fare so tasty you won’t be reminded how good for you it is. And (or course) it’s offered in small plates. Winners start with the divinely sweet green pea pate (trust me!), topped with a silvery slick of goat cheese, and the richer-than-Buffet mushroom pate. In between, consider the quinoa and wild rice croquettes and the faro salad, along with a few flesh items (salmon, buffalo short ribs) for the cavemen among us.

Finally, hosannah to the one major player on this list, the new restaurant called Prairie Kitchen in downtown’s Hyatt Regency Hotel (1300 Nicollet Mall). With a menu that heralds Minnesota’s Scandinavian forebears, the chef thinks both locally and in Swedish, rolling out (yet more) small plates, such as a spectacular rendition of the Old Country’s trinity—  cured salmon with fingerling potatoes and dill—and a sumptuous version of a Nordic grandma’s meatballs, served with a cache of earthy morel mushrooms in a cream sauce you’ll dream about for days.  Excellent trout cakes and walleye, too.

One final hurrah for a sweet spot that opened too late in 2011 to make that year’s listing, and that’s Zen Box (602 Washington Ave. S.), serving the comfort foods of Japan in (all together now) small-plate servings: Think slurpy noodles and savory dumplings—the stuff you really want to eat—rather than fashion-forward sushi.  And for dessert? Rice, three ways.

 

 


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Carla Waldemar's picture
Carla Waldemar

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All Minneapolis?

I'm always shocked to read lists in a "Twin Cities" news site that mention nothing outside the borders of MInneapolis.  Because I know from 40 years experience that great dining places are all across the map.  At least Jeremy Iggers did a piece on the Barbary Fig.  And I did one on India House in St Paul.

St. Paul and Minneapolis

This is Carla Waldemar's list - we'd welcome yours! 

For the record, I'm a proud St. Paulite, and have written about lots of favorite eateries here - including Homi, Cheng Heng and Trieu Chau - as well as Erin Collins' recent top tacos in St. Paul article, and John Bailey's Greenline Gems series.

Hope to see your list soon!

Eight Best Eateries of 2012

Only restaurants that opened during 2012 were considered for this list. Wishing there had been more in St. Paul, too!

List

Acropolis

India House

Russian Tea House

Barbary Fig

Everest on Grand

Khyber Pass

Big Daddy's Old Kentucky Barbecue

India Palace--Roseville

Khan's Mongolian Barbecue--Roseville

Indochin

Black Sea

Cecil's Deli

Port of Beirut

Da Afghan---Bloomington

Babani's

Taste of Thailand

Blue Door

Lee and Dees Barbecue

Q Fanatic--Maple Grove

Seems to me Guy Fieri has found TV-worthy places all over the 7  counties.

Great list!

Any chance you'd be interested in posting descriptions of any of these? We have articles about some (Big Daddy's, for example, is here and here and here and here in your blog), but I know we haven't covered all of the restaurants on your list. I'd love to see your reviews — or posts from anyone about their favorite restaurants. 

Reviews

I only posted places I've been.  But I could hardly review any place I haven't been recently.  So no openings anywhere but in Minneapolis?  That really sounds improbable.  Maybe true, but it makes it a very odd year then.  Interesting part for me is the knowledge that most of these places I've named have been around for YEARS.  But only the Pioneer Press lady ever writes anything on them.  Are we really all that insular?  I've never ever been someone who said "If it aint in my town, don't bother me."Places like Cecil's, Khyber Pass, Indochin (or Hung Seng as it was before) have been on  my favorites list for 20-30 years.  Even though I've lived continuously in Minneapolis back to 1972.  Good eating doesn't respect boundaries.  St  Paul has always, for the last 40 years at least, featured some of the very best names in restaurant food in the entire region.  I would expect that foodies would be well aware of that and have the same reaction I had: "Why so narrow a focus?"  I read with sadness that Kathie Jenkins, the regions most frequent voice on East Metro food left the Pioneer Press in 2012.  I hope she follow Jeremy Iggers online.  I don't even consider myself a "critic".  I just like food and am a fan of places that have provided variety long before any of these trendy names got into cooking school.

 

My Blog

Rather than a bunch of piecemeal replies, see my food blog: http://cooper-lake.blogspot.com/